Philippine Leaf Insect Care Guide
Phyllium philippinicum
Philippine Leaf Insects are spectacular tropical insects whose colour and body shape provide remarkably convincing leaf camouflage. They are a good species to rear at home, although young nymphs require particular attention to humidity, feeding and safe handling.
Adult females reach around 75–80 mm and develop a broad, leaf-shaped body. Males are smaller at approximately 55–60 mm, are more slender and are capable of flight.
Newly hatched nymphs look very different from the adults. They initially emerge dark, with contrasting pale markings, before becoming green as they develop.
Young nymphs on Blackberry
Setting Up the Enclosure
The most important consideration when choosing an enclosure is height. Leaf insects need to suspend themselves while shedding their skin, so there must always be plenty of clear space below them.
We recommend an enclosure at least three times the insect's body length in height. A taller enclosure is preferable for larger nymphs and adults.
Young nymphs can initially be housed in a smaller container, which makes it easier for them to find their food. They can then be moved into progressively larger accommodation as they grow.
Food plants provide excellent climbing surfaces, so there is no need to fill the enclosure with unnecessary decoration.
Some ventilation should always be provided, while avoiding an enclosure that becomes excessively dry.
Temperature
Aim for approximately:
Day: 20–25°C
Night: 18–20°C
Normal temperatures in a warm home are therefore often suitable.
Warmer conditions generally result in faster growth, but consistently high temperatures can also shorten the insects' lifespan.
Keep the enclosure away from cold draughts, radiators and other strong heat sources. Never position it in direct sunlight, as enclosed containers can become dangerously hot very quickly.
Humidity & Water
Humidity is particularly important for young nymphs and insects approaching a moult.
As a general guide, lightly mist the enclosure once or twice each day. The insects can drink droplets from their food leaves, so a separate water dish is unnecessary.
Conditions should be humid without leaving the enclosure permanently saturated. Some airflow should be maintained and any mould or decaying vegetation removed.
Pay particular attention to newly hatched nymphs, which can dehydrate much more easily than larger insects.
Host Plants & Feeding
Suitable food plants include:
- Bramble (blackberry)
- Raspberry
- Oak
- Rose
- Guava
For UK keepers, bramble is usually the easiest staple food and has the advantage of remaining available in many areas throughout winter.
Choosing Bramble
There is an important distinction between suitable mature bramble and fresh new growth.
Choose fully developed, green bramble leaves rather than the very young, soft and hairy shoots. Young bramble growth should be avoided, particularly with small L1–L3 nymphs.
For newly hatched nymphs, cutting a small amount from the edges of the leaves can make it easier for them to begin feeding.
Whichever food plant you choose, make absolutely sure it has not been exposed to pesticides or other garden chemicals. Be particularly cautious with ornamental plants purchased from garden centres or florists.
Keeping Food Fresh
Cut stems can be stood in water to keep the leaves fresh for longer.
However, never leave an open container of water inside the enclosure. Cover the opening securely around the stems so that the insects, particularly small nymphs, cannot fall into the water.
Replace leaves as they deteriorate and remove dead or mouldy plant material.
Caring for Newly Hatched Nymphs
L1 nymphs are considerably smaller and more delicate than established leaf insects. They can also move surprisingly quickly, so take care whenever their enclosure is opened.
Keep plenty of suitable food within easy reach rather than expecting tiny nymphs to search a large enclosure.
Fresh, mature bramble is ideal. If they appear reluctant to feed, trim the edges of the leaves to expose an easier feeding surface.
Maintaining suitable humidity is particularly important at this stage.
Once the nymphs are established, visibly feeding and have completed their first few moults, they generally become easier to manage.
Moulting
Leaf insects cannot grow continuously within their rigid outer skin. Instead, they periodically shed it and emerge larger.
A developing P. philippinicum will typically moult approximately once a month, although growth rate varies with temperature and other conditions.
When moulting, the insect hangs down and gradually works itself free of its old skin. This requires plenty of unobstructed vertical space.
Never handle or disturb an insect during a moult.
The new exoskeleton is initially extremely soft, so recently moulted insects should also be left alone until they have hardened.
Poor humidity, insufficient space or disturbance during this process can result in unsuccessful moults.
Handling
Handle leaf insects as little as possible, particularly when they are young.
When an insect needs to be moved, encourage it to walk onto your hand or another object rather than pulling it from the plant.
A small, soft paintbrush is particularly useful for moving tiny nymphs.
Never forcibly pull a leaf insect from a branch or leaf. Their legs are delicate and can detach if excessive force is used. Young nymphs may regenerate a lost leg during subsequent moults, but avoiding injury in the first place is much better.
Adults
Females develop the broad, flattened appearance for which leaf insects are famous and cannot fly.
Adult males are noticeably smaller and slimmer and are capable of flight, so extra care should be taken when opening their enclosure.
The sexes can usually be distinguished before adulthood, with females developing a broader and more rounded abdomen.
Under suitable conditions, adults may live for several months.
Eggs & Breeding
Mature females drop their eggs onto the floor of the enclosure. A productive female may lay a few eggs each day.
Eggs can be collected and incubated separately, which makes it much easier to monitor them.
A small container containing slightly moist coconut fibre works well. The objective is to prevent the eggs from drying out without keeping them so wet that mould develops.
Check the eggs regularly and lightly mist when required.
Hatching generally begins after around 4–6 months, although individual eggs can develop at different rates. Don't discard apparently healthy eggs simply because others from the same batch have already hatched.
Do They Need a Male to Breed?
Not necessarily.
Phyllium philippinicum is capable of parthenogenesis, which means an unmated female can still produce viable eggs. Offspring resulting from parthenogenetic reproduction will be female.
When males are present, the species also reproduces sexually.
Cleaning
Remove old food, fallen leaves and any mouldy material regularly.
A substrate isn't essential. A simple enclosure floor can actually make cleaning easier and allows eggs to be spotted and collected readily.
Alternatively, a moisture-retaining substrate such as coconut fibre can be used, provided it is kept clean and isn't allowed to become waterlogged.
Quick Care Summary
Temperature: 20–25°C during the day, approximately 18–20°C at night
Main food: Mature bramble leaves
Other foods: Raspberry, oak, rose and guava
Water: Mist the enclosure; no drinking bowl required
Misting: Usually once or twice daily
Housing: Tall enclosure with sufficient ventilation and plenty of moulting space
Egg incubation: Typically around 4–6 months
Difficulty: Easy to intermediate
Most Important Things to Remember
Always provide plenty of vertical moulting space, don't allow young nymphs to dry out, and make sure fresh food is constantly available.
When using bramble, choose mature green leaves rather than soft, hairy new growth, particularly for young nymphs.
Finally, avoid unnecessary handling. These insects are best enjoyed by observing their fascinating behaviour, growth and extraordinary camouflage.